I heard from someone that I cooould build my own solor stove using pvc pipe by laying it on my garage roof and circulating the by use of my filter pump.
Answers:
You are confusing different pipe textile. You don't want to use pvc, you want to use poly pipe. Not only is pvc more expensive, but you won't bring it in black. It simply comes in white or grey.
For a 15 ft above ground, I'd use 3/4 inch surrounded by a length of around 200 feet minimum. You involve to spread the coils out a bit. Just lay them down on the roof, cut the tape and start moving the coil, approaching you would a stack of cards, from the top, to spread it out. Don't forget to secure them within place.
You'll need to build a bypass spigot assembly for all of this. The explanation being is that at dark or on cold days, without a bypass, your pool wet will be traveling up to a cold roof, giving off your pool warmth. The by pass allows you to throttle the volume going to the solar collector and to shut it rotten completely at night. You can build an automated one beside temperature probes and thermostat relay and motorized spigot for about 250 dollars or you can dance cheap and make a manually controlled one for just about 25 bucks.
You just hold to remember to shut the solar off every dark or you'll piss off adjectives the heat you gain back into the atmosphere.
You newly need to put two plumbing Tees surrounded by your return line after your filter but in the past your chlorinator, if you have one. In between the Tees will be your bypass tap. The Tee closest to the filter is your "to solar". The one after the valve and back the chlorinator or pool, is your "from solar". The valve operate as a throttling device. The more it's in the closed position, the more wet it sends up to the solar. In fully open, it sends NO wet up there. It's easier for the filter to push it to the pool than up to the roof. In fully closed, ALL the sea goes to the solar. You don't want that though. You want slow moving marine going through the collector to get as much boil as possible.
The size of Tees and the size of the valve are going to depend on your existing plumbing. Probably it's 1 1/4 inch, self an above ground. So you'll need two 1 1/4 X 3/4 X 1 1/4 Tees ( three dollars) and a 1 1/4 spigot, preferably a ball spigot, not a gate stopcock (20 dollars).
Check the plumbing first before getting those parts though, you may be lucky and the guys that built it put within 1 1/2 inch plumbing. If that's the case, obtain your Tees and valve as expected.
Iv'e seen heaps of these do it yourself solar rigs and they all work simply about as powerfully as a 1500 dollar store bought one and usually less headache to install and profess to boot.
Yes you could. You probably know though that the pipe is a pretty fair insulator, compared to copper. You would entail a lot of pipe to return with enough warmth to make it worthwhile. Your pool filter probably circulates marine at such a high rate, that sea would not stay in the pipes long plenty to get terribly warm. This is not a problem, but money you would be using a lot more electricity than is required. Since there would not be much pressure, I would suggest using the thinnest of the available PVC pipes. Ordinary PVC will deteriorate within the heat and sunlight. You can seize PVC with a UV resistant rating.
As to the size, smaller pipe have more surface area per part of volume, so would be more efficient. I would use hulking pipes to get hose down to and from the heater, and small pipes for the kiln itself. In order to hold down friction loss, the small pipes should be in parallel. If the piping be in a box next to a glass cover, it would be most well-run. That way the pipes would be exposed to bake in the box as in good health as radiant heat from the sun.
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Answers:
You are confusing different pipe textile. You don't want to use pvc, you want to use poly pipe. Not only is pvc more expensive, but you won't bring it in black. It simply comes in white or grey.
For a 15 ft above ground, I'd use 3/4 inch surrounded by a length of around 200 feet minimum. You involve to spread the coils out a bit. Just lay them down on the roof, cut the tape and start moving the coil, approaching you would a stack of cards, from the top, to spread it out. Don't forget to secure them within place.
You'll need to build a bypass spigot assembly for all of this. The explanation being is that at dark or on cold days, without a bypass, your pool wet will be traveling up to a cold roof, giving off your pool warmth. The by pass allows you to throttle the volume going to the solar collector and to shut it rotten completely at night. You can build an automated one beside temperature probes and thermostat relay and motorized spigot for about 250 dollars or you can dance cheap and make a manually controlled one for just about 25 bucks.
You just hold to remember to shut the solar off every dark or you'll piss off adjectives the heat you gain back into the atmosphere.
You newly need to put two plumbing Tees surrounded by your return line after your filter but in the past your chlorinator, if you have one. In between the Tees will be your bypass tap. The Tee closest to the filter is your "to solar". The one after the valve and back the chlorinator or pool, is your "from solar". The valve operate as a throttling device. The more it's in the closed position, the more wet it sends up to the solar. In fully open, it sends NO wet up there. It's easier for the filter to push it to the pool than up to the roof. In fully closed, ALL the sea goes to the solar. You don't want that though. You want slow moving marine going through the collector to get as much boil as possible.
The size of Tees and the size of the valve are going to depend on your existing plumbing. Probably it's 1 1/4 inch, self an above ground. So you'll need two 1 1/4 X 3/4 X 1 1/4 Tees ( three dollars) and a 1 1/4 spigot, preferably a ball spigot, not a gate stopcock (20 dollars).
Check the plumbing first before getting those parts though, you may be lucky and the guys that built it put within 1 1/2 inch plumbing. If that's the case, obtain your Tees and valve as expected.
Iv'e seen heaps of these do it yourself solar rigs and they all work simply about as powerfully as a 1500 dollar store bought one and usually less headache to install and profess to boot.
Yes you could. You probably know though that the pipe is a pretty fair insulator, compared to copper. You would entail a lot of pipe to return with enough warmth to make it worthwhile. Your pool filter probably circulates marine at such a high rate, that sea would not stay in the pipes long plenty to get terribly warm. This is not a problem, but money you would be using a lot more electricity than is required. Since there would not be much pressure, I would suggest using the thinnest of the available PVC pipes. Ordinary PVC will deteriorate within the heat and sunlight. You can seize PVC with a UV resistant rating.
As to the size, smaller pipe have more surface area per part of volume, so would be more efficient. I would use hulking pipes to get hose down to and from the heater, and small pipes for the kiln itself. In order to hold down friction loss, the small pipes should be in parallel. If the piping be in a box next to a glass cover, it would be most well-run. That way the pipes would be exposed to bake in the box as in good health as radiant heat from the sun.
Related Questions:
Witch caring of solar panel are best and why ,time degrading Watts ..?
Siemens puts out a model SM110 rated power +- 5% 110watts 12v 6.3 amps 17.5v 6.9amps wieght 11.5kg about .868 sq meters No easy answers for this one. Some of the different thin film ones degrade to some extent rapidly. My Siemens panels seem not...